Posted by Greg Clow in beer, beverages on May 1, 2007 at 4:58 pm
In a local craft beer scene that has seen its fair share of well-intentioned failures, Etobicoke's Great Lakes Brewery is a low-key success story. Founded in 1987, Great Lakes spent many years brewing nothing but Golden Horseshoe, an easy drinking lager that was initially available only on draught. It was eventually bottled and joined by two other beers, Red Leaf Lager and Black Jack Black Lager. All three beers catered to fairly mainstream tastes, and while not wildly successful, they developed enough of a following to keep the small brewery operational for the last two decades.
Sometime last year, however, they suddenly decided to break from their usual mould and try something different with a series of seasonal releases. Their first effort, the full-flavoured Devil's Pale Ale, was launched at last summer's Festival of Beer at Fort York, and it surprised many local beer drinkers who knew the brewery from their trio of mellow lagers. Even more surprising was their Winter Ale, a strong spiced ale that was perfect for the holidays.
Most recently, the series has continued with Orange Peel Ale. As the name suggests, this golden ale had orange peel added during the boil, giving both the aroma and flavour an interesting citrus note that compliments the sweet malts and soft herbal hops. Despite the use of five specialty malts and five varieties of hops, this is not an exceedingly complex beer, and the orange notes are quite subtle. In fact, it's quite reminiscent of a good UK session bitter, albeit with a slightly fruit-accented character. But given the sickly sweetness of many fruit beers, it's nice to have one that doesn't beat you over the head with the fruit, and just lets it be one aspect of a tasty, well-crafted beer.
One other good thing about Orange Peel Ale: Unlike the previous Great Lakes seasonals which were only available on draught or at the brewery, this one is part of the LCBO's spring beer release (LCBO 615633, $4.95/650 mL). Quantities and distribution are limited, but it's been so popular that the brewery is doing a second batch to meet demand, so you should be able to find it for at least the next few weeks.
I've not yet had the chance to sample the Orange Peel Ale, Greg, but I'm befuddled by some of the reviews the "perfect for the holidays" Spiced Ale from Great Lakes received. I found its spicing confused and heavy-handed, its body muddy and flat-tasting and its general character completely overbearing. Plainly put, I couldn't finish a sample glass of the stuff.
I'm fortunate enough to travel quite a bit, and so have been able to sample many a spiced ale from the U.S. and Europe, and I wonder if the generally positive notices the Spiced Ale received were at least partly because most Ontarians had not previously encountered such an animal. Reminds me of the accolades the Glatt Barleywine received several years back, when it couldn't even stand alongside some of the second tier barleywines from the States and Britain.
Interesting comment, Stephen. Personally, I found the Winter Ale to be decent, and I've sampled a fair number of spiced ales, albeit in bottled versions that travelled to me rather than me travelling to them. It wasn't an outstanding ale, but pleasant enough for what it was, and certainly a step up from Great Lakes' regular lager line-up.
I know that some people commented at the time on differences between the draught and bottled versions, and I also think there were at least two batches made. Given their relative inexperience with ales, maybe it took a try or two to get it where they wanted it?
I'll be curious to know what you think of the Orange Peel Ale. I think you're generally less forgiving than I am, and a more experienced taster as well, so maybe you'll hate it as much as the Winter Ale. :)
Well, I went out yesterday and bought myself a bottle of the Orange Peel Ale, and guess what?, I like it. It's a bit of a one trick pony, for sure -- by the end of my glass, not the bottle, but simply a glass of it, I was getting quite bored with the perfumey orange thing -- but it is well made, with big, brilliant aromatics and a subtle enough orange presence in the body. My principle complaint, aside from the lack of interest-building complexity, is the sharpness of the finish, which struck me as overly citrus oily.
Head, shoulders and a generous proportion of a torso above the Winter Spiced Ale, for certain, and a definite step in the right direction for Great Lakes.
BTW, I was a bit cranky yesterday, which I think explains the generally cantankerous nature of my previous post. Apologies.
No need to apologize, Stephen. We like a bit of cantankerousness around here. Keeps things interesting. ;)