Posted by Greg Clow in beer, beverages on April 3, 2007 at 9:11 pm
While they won't be officially given out until tomorrow, this year's edition of the Ontario Beer Awards have already caused some controversy in the local beer geek scene thanks to a leaked list of winners being posted to the discussion forum at BarTowel.com.
This competition tends to cause some minor grumbling every year due to the fact that the credentials of some of the judging panel are somewhat questionable - for example, the bios of some judges use phrases like "he's been throwing keg parties since he turned 19" as proof of their suitability for the position. But this year, the complaints went into overdrive when it was discovered that the notorious Steelback Brewery somehow managed to win four medals, including gold in the Dark Lager and Honey Beer categories.
Unfortunately, this controversy - however justified it might be - is bound to overshadow the fact that several very deserving beers also won awards. One of those beers is Hockley Dark, a brown ale from Orangeville's Hockley Valley Brewing that's been on LCBO shelves and a few bar tap lines for the past three years or so. This is a beer that tends to fly under the radar for a lot of local beer drinkers, perhaps because many of them look upon brown ales as an unexciting and unchallenging style, but if I may steal the motto of a more popular mainstream brew: Those who like it, like it a lot.
To be honest, it took me a few tries to bring me on board, but now I'm a serious fan of this brew, especially when I can find some fresh cans (easy to tell thanks to the date stamp on the bottom). It has a nice dark ruby-brown colour with a fairly still body, and a pleasing aroma of roasted malt, brown sugar, cocoa and woody hops. The body is soft and light, which surprises those who expect all dark beers to be big and heavy, and the flavour is full without being overpowering, with notes of malt, licorice, coffee, roasted nuts, and a slowly developing hop bitterness in the finish.
This is an understated and under-appreciated gem of a beer, and well deserving of the gold medal it has won in the Dark Ale category. If you'd like to give it a try yourself, it can be found at many local LCBO locations (LCBO 34660, $2.50/473 mL can & LCBO 679019, $9.95/1 L bottle) and on tap at a few of Toronto's better beer bars.
In addition, complimentary samples will be served alongside all of the other the other Ontario Beer Award winners tomorrow - Wednesday, April 4th - from 5 to 7 PM at the Esplanade Bier Markt (58 The Esplanade). If you're lucky, maybe Frank D'Angelo & The Steelback 2-4 Band will be there to provide the entertainment!
Why do I find it funny that the security word I had to type to publish this comment was beef, given your recent trip back to the meaty side Greg :)
Agreed Hockley is an outstanding local micro and probably a little under appreciated. It also goes a long way to showing how good micro's can be in can form.
But isn't there something, I dunno, a little dirty, maybe a little hypocritical, about discrediting the awards on one hand because of their unfortunate Steelback choices (justifiably so I might add - they're just a marketing ploy from the beer store and co. who represent the pathetic beer culture in this backwater Province) but then praising one of the choices because it happens to be a good beer? I'm not saying you're doing this specifically, in fact, you've taken the high road on the rowdy discussion over there on BarTowel, but it just seems to be that any press these awards receive just encourages them.
I lay the blame for all this solely at the feet of the Ontario Craft Brewers actually. Formed a few years ago, they were successful as a Government Lobbying Collective, reducing significantly the taxes Micro Brewers have to pay. But as a promotional outfit, they are, so far, an abysmal failure. Where are the Ontario Craft Brewing festivals? Or awards for that matter, so our fine craft brewers do not have to get involved in crap like these awards or the others fests that simply tolerate them instead of promote them? A couple of shelf cards and a handout map in the local LCBO does not cut it. They need to create an environment where craft brewers and only only craft brewers are promoted and distinguished from Buck a Beer, Honey Lager pushing twits like Frank.
Just my two cents - as you know I do not particularly care for the atmosphere over there on the Towel with our passionate but often times misguided or in extreme cases ignorant fellow Ontario craft brew lovers, so I do not get a chance to chat (vent? :) ) about the local scene too often.
Jeff
Thanks for the comment, Jeff.
As far as the possible "encouragement" that my post might give to the Awards - that's a point well taken. I guess I was just trying to illustrate the extremes that are being represented by the winners of the awards, from Steelback's macro-wannabe brews to excellent craft beers like Hockley. I wasn't really trying to pass any judgement on the Awards one way or another, even though I'll freely admit that I do have a lot of issues with them, from the questionable credentials of many of the judges, to the inclusion of a "Best Sellers" award to allow the crap from Molson and Labatt to have a presence on the winners lists.
And I'm in complete agreement with you about the OCB. I think it's great that they've managed to get more shelf space in the LCBO, but putting most of their eggs in that basket has alienated some great breweries that have no interest in selling through the LCBO (like Church Key). And their promotional efforts outside of the LCBO has been pretty much non-existent as far as I've seen. The only evidence I've seen of the OCB outside of the LCBO and the brewery stores has been a little flurry of print & radio ads that I don't think are running any more, and little window stickers at some bars and restaurants. We're living in a time where the Internet is one of the most powerful promotional tools available, and they've barely updated the OCB website since it was launched 2 years ago.
You're always welcome to vent here. It makes us feel like there are actually people out there reading the site. :)
Hey, Greg. Just stumbled across this posting. I'm a little late, but just thought I'd say good on ya for mentioning a very worthy gold medal winner at the awards.
Despite the criticism, I'm still happy that there is an Ontario Brewing Awards event, even if a lot of beer drinkers aren't happy with who is behind them or how the results turn out, and I'm proud to be one of the judges with crap credentials who helped crown the winners.
BTW, I certainly do not agree on all of them this year, or any year. And that's the way it should be.
SHAMELESS SELF-PROMOTION: I'll be taking on Steelback in this week's Suds cage match -- no holds barred -- on Thurs. so I look forward to comments from you, Jeff and any other beer fans.
Thanks!
aonghus
Thanks for the comments, Aonghus. Rest assured that your credentials place you on the good side of the 50% good/50% crap equation.
I look forward to seeing what you'll have to say in tomorrow's column. I thought Josh's piece in the Star today was good, and give a nice perspective on things.