Posted by Sheryl Kirby in magazines, news and media on March 22, 2007 at 7:31 pm
Food-loving citizens of the Town of Hogs, rejoice, rejoice, for it is the most wondrous time of year. That is correct friends, it is the Toronto Life food issue, full of delicious delights for all and sundry to enjoy. Okay... not so much.
First off, let me say that I have nothing against James Chatto. I think he's a fantastic writer and he knows his stuff. But for a magazine that continues to insist that it's meant for all Torontonians, not just the rich folks, this list of Best New Restaurants is awfully upscale. Of the 20 winners, I've been to exactly none of them, and there's actually only a few that even pique my interest. Many, like Maro in Liberty Village, have gotten soundly trounced by other reviewers in the city, some aren't even in the city, and the rest all seem terribly chi-chi.
While I don't dispute that the chefs at Toronto's top (aka. "upscale") restaurants work hard at creating gastronomic delights, or that they deserve every cent they charge for those plates because they're using quality ingredients and are (hopefully) paying their staff well, I think it's really a shame to overlook the delights to be found at hole-in-the-wall pho joints, basement dumpling houses, local diners and family-run taquerias, where the food can be every bit as delicious and satisfying for 1/10th (or less) of the price.
Defenders of Toronto Life's preference for high-end restaurants would likely be quick to point out the restaurant guide book which comes free to subscribers. This is a compilation of restaurant reviews from a variety of writers and includes a "$25" category, where the listing is tagged to show that one person can dine for under $25. This is great information to know, and yes, Toronto Life includes plenty of these reviews in the guide. However, the $25 icon seems to supersede an actual rating, as if to indicate that the place isn't worthy of a rated review, a subtle snub that seems to imply that we poor folk shouldn't expect quality if we're not willing to pay for it.
One final swipe at the guidebook before I move on to the other features. I'm not sure who wrote the review of the Queen West tea house Red Tea Box, but sweet jumpin' Jehosafat, for the love of all that is good and precious in this world, stop calling it "high tea". Check your GD Larousse Gastronomique, people; "high tea" is supper, served in the evening at the (high) dinner table. A cup of tea in the afternoon with sandwiches, scones and pastries is "afternoon tea". If you don't even know what meal you're eating, perhaps reviewing restaurants is not the best career option for you, ya?
Elsewhere in April's Toronto Life:
- Leah Rumack learns how to make chicken soup with matzo balls
- David Lawrason looks at how Italian vintners are rediscovering native grape varieties
- Christine Sismondo looks at Toronto's first good stiff drink in 1947, and makes us nostalgic for the long lost Silver Rail
- Susur Lee shills for BMW as part of a "special advertising feature"
- a selection of comfort foods
- an interview with Jamie Drummond, sommelier at JK Wine Bar
Red Tea Box is abosolutely precious. I visited last Sunday and it was superb.
I think the label "high tea" is actually what the establishment uses, not a Toronto Life magazine designation.
Hi JP,
You're correct in that "high tea" has (unfortunately) become a fairly standard usage, although I don't know who "the establishment" are. Most hotels and places that offer afternoon tea call it just that, and do not use the pretentious and incorrect "high tea".
The usage of "high tea" came about because it sounds fancier and prettier than "afternoon tea", but there are parts of the world where people still take traditional high tea, which is not at all like what you get on a Sunday afternoon at the Windsor Arms.
That the media continues to use the incorrect term and that food writers don't make the effort to know the difference is really disheartening. Frustrates me just about as much as people who think martinis have cranberry juice in them.
Thanks for the short note about the usage of "high tea". I find it interesting =)
Oh, by "the establishment" I simply mean "Red Tea Box". They themselves call it "high tea".
I'm still having a tough time getting passed the editor's tirade on colloquial politeness. I haven't been able to get passed that ridiculous intro to digest the issue yet.
I'll take a look!
Greg Gouillard was nothing before Lee Bailey came along, she was the true genius behind his recepites from Stelle on. His star only rose when she was in the picture and every kitchen knows it!!!...he is a fake that has been riding on the coatails of others and now it's this naive NAGANA and has slithered into Yorkdale owing many for his coke habbit...the only spice he knows!!!!!!!