I had a sneaking suspicion that NOW’s Steven Davey had secretly gone vegetarian, so prolific were his recent reviews on local veggie spots. He proves me wrong this week though, with his review of D-Ganz, a steakhouse on St. Clair that serves up great cuts of beef at awesome prices.

Davey also offers up his Fresh Dish column this week, with all the news on opening and closings in the Toronto restaurant scene; Planet Kensington is closing, Magic Oven just opened a third location so folks in the Annex can enjoy great pizza (Congratulations, Tony!), and Young Thailand has moved to The Junction.

Also in NOW, Graham Duncan offers up his LCBO picks for the week which include Greenore Single Grain Irish Whiskey, reminding us that the day of green beer and “Kiss Me, I’m Irish” buttons is only a couple of weeks away.

Over at Eye, Alan A. Vernon and Don Douloff have only faint praise for Cambalache, which is too bad given that it’s a tapas bar with real Spanish tapas, not an excuse to charge $12 for two spring rolls.

But this tapas is being touted as the real deal, with a whopping list of 45 meat, seafood and veggie items ($4.50 to $13) to choose from, much of it, sadly, disappointing. Starting on a good note, lamb meatballs ($8) couldn’t be more beguiling. Pillowy-soft and juicy morsels, they’re flattered by a thick, sweet tomato sauce that boasts an irresistible homemade quality. So, too, is a sophisticated, slightly thickened sherry sauce that spices up slices of mild chorizo sausage ($7.50). And keep those classic tango partners – manchego cheese ($6.50) and quince paste – a comin’.

But store-bought cheese, sausage and quince membrillo don’t truly reflect a kitchen’s gastronomic mettle, as the rest of the house-made dishes reveal a puzzlingly uneven hand. Like stringy spinach ($6) sautéed with raisins and pine nuts. Or pedestrian mushroom caps stuffed with an under-seasoned mixture of minced chorizo, onions, peppers and cheese ($8).

At Metro, Billy Munnelly offers up a column of wines “worth splurging on”, but most of his picks are actually quite reasonably priced.

They’re also writing about National Nutrition Month at Metro - which is March, and thus, begins today, in case you’re out of the nutrition loop - with recommendations to follow Canada’s Food Guide. Oh, Metro - they got to you too?? There’s also a piece about our local Whole Foods, although it doesn’t ask the tough questions author Michael Pollan does.