Percolating Perfection

Posted by Howard Dubrovsky in beverages, coffee, event reviews on February 25, 2007 at 8:45 am

I suppose its a pretty good indication you’re a coffee fanatic when you get a Bodum for your 14th birthday. Coffee has been a daily part of my environment since I was a kid. At the time, my often rowdy brothers and I were under the gentle guidance of a British au pair named Sue. Sue was about as cool a person as any kid could imagine. She was young, hip and had an accent. Naturally, everything she did was fair game for imitation. This included Sue’s particular eating habits. In the years that Sue lived with us, she existed, as far as I or any in my family could tell, exclusively on coffee – seriously, I never saw her eat a single thing. That devotion to coffee was something that stuck with me. And, its a tradition that I have taken on and kept to this day (of course I also eat A LOT of food).

Despite drinking upwards of 8 cups a day in university – thank you very much philosophy – it wasn’t until culinary school that I was able to really see coffee as the sophisticated drink that it is. Coffee is a chemically complex, versatile, and malleable product. In many ways coffee is like a vintage of wine, and having the right person brew your cup is like having a sommelier pour that perfect glass to go with dinner.

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Ed’s coffee art at Dark Horse Espresso Bar

As the self proclaimed cafficionado that I am, I have assembled a small army of baristas and brew masters, in cafés around the city, to cater to my every coffee whim. I am constantly on the lookout for new venues to satiate my coffee lust. Recently, I came across two new spots in town that have really got me percolating. Completely different in style and methodology, they both struck me as uniquely special in an often saturated market.For the die hard coffee enthusiast Dark Horse Espresso Bar (682 Queen Street East) is a piece of well-lit heaven. Its eclectic, found-art, lofty feel makes for a very inviting space. Its the type of place that actors and artists can rub elbows with students and suits. Ed Lynds, co-owner and barista supreme, skillfully whips up any number of espresso treats -made all the more special by some mad coffee art skills. A variety of teas and baked goods round off the menu, but here coffee is king. While there are many good ways to brew coffee, as far as I’m concerned the French Press method provides the cleanest, most unadulterated cup. Few cafés offer French Press, so it was a wonderful surprise to find that not only does Dark Horse offer French Press service, but they have a variety coffees to choose from. For a few bucks you’re going to get 2 substantial cups of the best coffee you’re going to taste (and between 30-140 mg more caffeine than a double espresso- hooray).

Of course coffee isn’t the only factor in the making of a great café. Service, food, and ambiance all contribute to its success. Colin McArthur, owner of Carole’s Cheesecake Café (114 Cumberland Street) in Yorkville, seems to know this implicitly. Now its true that I’m not always a fan of the Yorkville area. Too often high-end areas have high-end prices, and not much else. Thankfully, CCC is different. The décor is clean and modern, with lots of chocolate brown wood to keep the space warm. The staff is deliciously attentive but not overbearing. And the food… well, lets just say having 10 varieties of fluffy cheesecake by the slice to choose from makes me very, very, happy (and thankful I have a gym membership). Ultimately, like the Dark Horse, greatness is in the details. Carole’s Cheesecake Café really hits the mark with features like proper tea service, gourmet products (sea salt and cayenne on every table!), and a menu thats not only vegetarian friendly, but vegan friendly. Oh yeah, and the coffee is great too.

The point here, beyond the fact that you really owe it to yourself to check these two places out, is, when looking for a café to call your own, don’t simply look to what’s closest. Take an afternoon, hell take two or three if you can spare them, and try someplace new. Get to know the people who brew your passion. Good memories are never more than a cup away.

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