In Search of the Perfect Hommous

Posted by Rod Weatherbie in middle eastern, prepared foods, product comparison on May 9, 2008 at 4:34 pm

I grew up on Lebanese food.

I’m not Lebanese. But growing up in Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, I might as well have been. The Island has, for its population, a sizable Lebanese community. A lot of the merchants on the Island are Lebanese, one of Charlottetown’s city councilors is, and PEI has now had two premiers of Lebanese decent.

My grandmother’s bridge parties consisted of her and five Lebanese ladies.

Now, the how and the why so many people from that area of the world ended up on PEI remains a mystery to me (although I’m pretty sure there is a book or two explaining it), all I know is I love Lebanese food. Not Israeli, Syrian, Cypriot or whatever. No, it’s Lebanese I love. One of the best restaurants in Charlottetown is Lebanese, Cedar’s Eatery, and I grew up eating there and eventually ended up running their upstairs bar.

I shit falafel.

Ever since leaving the Island to come to Toronto we have yet to find a restaurant, Middle Eastern in general, Lebanese specifically (but you knew that already), that has yet to match the wonder that is Cedar’s.

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T.O. Events for May 9th-15th

Posted by Greg Clow in events, events upcoming on May 9, 2008 at 8:06 am

If you’re still looking for a good place to take Mom out on Sunday for Mother’s Day, how about a fancy afternoon tea? Many downtown hotels put on a nice spread every Sunday, and there are also a number of special teas happening, including soirées at Spadina Museum, Casa Loma, and Madeleines, Cherry Pie & Ice Cream.

Alternatively, if Mommy likes the vino, considering taking her out a day or two earlier to catch the end of the Santé Wine Festival. Friday night, chef Anthony Sedlak will be grilling up a storm at the Santé Down Under BBQ at Hart House, and then Sunday, the popular Sip, Savour and Shop and Sip, Savour and Learn events will take over Yorkville, leading up to a gala evening event at Hazelton Lanes.

The full list of happenings for the next week follows below, and as always, our Events page has more information on these and many other upcoming events in Toronto and area.

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Rag Round-Up - Thursday, May 8th

Posted by Sheryl Kirby in news and media, rag round-up on May 8, 2008 at 4:24 pm

At NOW this week, Steven Davey gets his fill of Mexican grub with visits to La Tortilliera, where they bake the tortillas onsite; and Burritos Mexican House where the burritos come with a side of fries. In his Drink Up column, Graham Duncan does a great job of describing Trafalgar Oak-Aged rye without actually telling us what it tastes like.

Handsome devil Corey Mintz scores himself the cover story at Eye with a piece about the Ontario Food Terminal. More extensive than the piece he wrote for us back in November, it’s a detailed look into a foreign place that most of us will never see. In the review section, Alan Vernon and Sean Kelly Keenan check out Terroni on Adelaide.

At Metro, Sandy Caetano reports on the coast to coast expansion of Cora’s breakfast chain, and Marcy Cornblum interviews comedienne Debra DiGiovanni about her favourite foods. Billy Munnelly looks at French wines and their new popularity. And for those who still haven’t figured out what to do for Mother’s Day, there’s a recipe for cranberry-topped pancakes. Just don’t make Mom clean up after you.

Would You Like Fries With That?

Posted by Sheryl Kirby in back of house, editorials on May 8, 2008 at 8:05 am

In Lauren Simmons’ piece earlier this morning, we ran what we’ll refer to as an essay from a server named Christopher Hayden. The article started out as the details of a basic restaurant service day, but one comment from the subject caught my attention as I was editing the piece. It was about how customers who order half fries/half salad make the server “cry inside”. I asked Lauren to delve further, hoping to truly find out why this order creates such a fuss at many establishments, and her piece this morning was the response she received.

When the essay arrived in my email inbox, my first thought was that it completely and utterly exemplified the rude, snotty attitude that we, as customers, fear from restaurant servers, and that has given particular areas of town a deplorable reputation in terms of restaurant service. (Okay, actually, my first thought was that it was a huge joke, because I can’t strip the little faith I have left in humanity to believe that there are people out there who think like this.)

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A Spectre Hanging Over the Restaurant Industry

Posted by Lauren Simmons in back of house, editorials on May 8, 2008 at 7:47 am

There is an unspoken rift in Toronto’s foodie community. Bloggers lament the death of good service, reviewers pan otherwise fantastic dining experiences when neglectful hosts fail to take their coats, and in even the city’s trendiest rooms, diners sit pouting in wait for water refills and bread baskets.

In an effort to peek behind the scenes of the perhaps-not-so-well-oiled-machine of food service, I sat down with Christopher Hayden, a self-declared waiter par excellence who has worked in some of the city’s hottest restaurants. What came of the interview was an interesting conundrum: while many in food service consider themselves professional and take their jobs quite seriously, many whom they serve do not.

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What’s Cooking - Wednesday, May 7th

Posted by Sheryl Kirby in news and media, what's cooking on May 7, 2008 at 5:22 pm

We’re coming up on the busiest brunch day of the year this Sunday, when guilty families across the country try to make up for a year of talking back, dirtying up the floors, and other assorted misdemeanours that drive Moms crazy. At the Toronto Sun Rita DeMontis says Moms just want “a simple thanks”, but barring that (or perhaps in addition to), try making her a cranberry brunch parfait. More ambitious children and hubbies (those not making brunch reservations) might want to offer Mom a healthy breakfast. DeMontis also has a piece on some microwaveable Thai noodle dishes (hint - take Mom out for Thai instead), and Elizabeth Baird roasts some local asparagus.

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Which ‘wich?

Posted by Renée Suen in prepared foods, products, sandwiches on May 7, 2008 at 7:37 am

As the weather warms, many choose to celebrate the season of fun in the sun and outdoors by taking their meals outside. Portable and delicious, the sandwich is an excellent food choice for such outings. My search for an ideal balance between a wheat-based shell and its glorious fillings has resulted in many noteworthy finds that would make any man (or woman) swoon. Sample any of the treats below for complete satisfaction.

The tender and moist slow roasted beef brisket ($6.50) takes 5 days to prepare at Black Camel (Rosedale Location: 4 Crescent Road). Choose to pair it with the house made Black Camel BBQ sauce, and/or any additional toppings (i.e. roasted sweet red peppers) for an extra $0.75.

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Beer of the Week - Mort Subite Kriek

Posted by Greg Clow in beer, beverages on May 6, 2008 at 5:35 pm

In their pure and unadulterated form, Belgian lambics are not beers to be trifled with. Brewed in open air vats where they are inoculated with wild yeasts and other wee beasties, and aged for years in wooden casks, these mutant brews develop flavours that are aggressively sour and funky, making them an acquired taste amongst even the geekiest of beer geeks.

Perhaps in attempt to temper this sourness, someone or other at some point in the past thought it might be a good idea to add some fruit to the mix. This addition can be handled a number of ways, from adding fresh fruit during fermentation, to cutting the pure lambic with fruit juice before packaging, to adding a flavoured syrup at the time of serving. Whichever method is chosen, there is an obvious effect on the flavour and sweetness of the brew, and those who find unflavoured lambics to be too sour and acidic will generally find the fruit versions more palatable.

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To Market, To Market…

Posted by Sheryl Kirby in events, events upcoming, farm to table, market basket on May 6, 2008 at 8:14 am

The warm weather we had in April means the season for local produce has already started. I came home from St. Lawrence Market this past Saturday with not only local asparagus and ramps, but peas, tomatoes, and fiddleheads.

Throughout the month of May and into June, the various farmer’s markets throughout the city will be starting up. And while we keep a very comprehensive guide of local markets on our Markets page, I know I can’t be the only one anxious to get out there and start checking out what’s available.

Here’s a list of Toronto markets based on their start dates, so market junkies can visit each one as they open for the season.

Note that we still don’t have start dates for a few places, but will continue to update our Markets page as start dates are announced.

Also, please watch for our Market Basket column, starting next Monday, where we feature a different local farmer’s market each week.

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The Wide, Wide World of Web - Monday, May 5th

Posted by Sheryl Kirby in news and media, on the web, wide, wide world of web on May 5, 2008 at 4:56 pm

This week, we start our round-up with Posted Toronto, where Rob Roberts features one of Parkdale’s favourite spots, the Good Catch General Store.

Eric Vellend of Menumental offers suggestions on where to get good vegetarian food for meat-free day, part of David Suzuki’s Nature Challenge.

At Torontoist, David reports on how the Queen West Ben & Jerry’s was the only location to not take part in free ice cream day, with the shop closed tight and bailiff notices posted in the window. Wasn’t this also the location that closed down one day last summer because it was “too hot” to open? Seeking chilly solace elsewhere, Julie compares slushies. Earning her, yet again, the award for most devoted (brave/foolish) food writer in Toronto.

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T.O. Tidbits - Monday May 5th

Posted by Greg Clow in restaurant closings, restaurant news, restaurant openings on May 5, 2008 at 8:18 am

bullhorn_guy.jpgIt’s not often that a critic shows up at a particular address to review a restaurant, only to find a different restaurant in its place. But that’s exactly what happened to our own Amy Grigg recently, as she arrived at 11 Jarvis Street to dine on the dishes of chef Brad Moore at Eleven, only to find that it had suddenly become The Garden @ Eleven, with Moore replaced by chef Pat Riley (ex-Perigee). There’s no word on why Moore left so suddenly only a few months into his stint there (which followed an equally sudden exit from Xacutti), but at least the quality of the food seems to have remained high with Riley at the helm.

As for both chefs’ previous stomping grounds, Perigee has been getting renewed attention and positive reviews under former sous chef and now head chef Chris Brown. And over where Xacutti used to be, owner Leslie Gibson has returned from LA to relaunch the space this Tuesday, May 6th as Grace (503 College Street). To oversee a menu focused on “traditional flavours inspired by family gatherings and Sunday dinners”, she’s plucked 26 year-old chef Dustin Gallagher from Susur, where he’s been sous chef for 6 years.

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Sunday Sips - California Style

Posted by Sheryl Kirby in beverages, events, wine on May 4, 2008 at 5:32 pm

It’s easy to see why people refer to California as “Wine Country”; with nearly 2300 wineries California commands 90 percent of US wine production. A new promotion at LCBO stores called California Style coincides with the Santé Wine Festival, and includes a variety of special events and in-store tastings.

“California Style” features more than 140 wines, including 65 brands in the $6.90 to $19.95 price range, from a variety of producers. In addition, the Vintages release on April 26th featured premium and super-premium wines from Napa Valley and Sonoma County.

This past Friday, I attended an event at Brookfield Place where the foods and wines of California were offered in a Malibu pool-party setting, complete with celebrity look-alikes. And while the Johnny Depp look-alike proved that only the real Depp can get away with that “Snoopy’s cousin Spike” look, complete with floppy fedora, the opportunity to try some of the featured wines paired with food such as California-style sandwich wraps and sushi was worth putting up with the kitschy stunt.

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James Beard Dinner at The Drake

Posted by Greg Clow in events, events upcoming on May 4, 2008 at 9:02 am

Normally here on Taste T.O. we tend not to print press releases in full, preferring to use them as the basis for either a quick summary blurb or a more detailed original article.

But in the case of an upcoming James Beard Dinner at the Drake Hotel featuring top chefs from across the country, anything we would’ve written would’ve been pretty much a full rehash of the press release. So for once, we’re breaking our unwritten rule:

Toronto, ON ­ - Hosted by Toronto’s original foodie Bonnie Stern, the food lover’s event of the season featuring renowned chefs from across Canada, takes place at the Drake Hotel on Wednesday, May 21 at 6:30 p.m. Each of the five chefs will prepare an individual course allowing diners to explore regional cuisine from across the country as well as get a taste of what makes these chefs the best in the business, all in support of the James Beard Foundation (JBF).

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In the Papers - Saturday May 3rd

Posted by Greg Clow in in the papers, news and media on May 3, 2008 at 4:38 pm

As Joanne Kates notes in her review of Le Pain Quotidien in today’s Globe & Mail, the recent opening in Forest Hill of the first Canadian location of this Belgian bakery and café chain was treated as nothing less than the second coming by many in Toronto’s foodie community. As far back as July of last year, the rumours of LPQ coming to Toronto were reported in a thread on Chowhound which quickly grew with stories of near-orgasmic experiences that people had with their pastries and sandwiches when visiting locations in other cities.

Since it finally opened last month, however, the discussion has taken a negative turn, with complaints about the food far outnumbering the complements. And based on her particularly scathing assessment, it’s safe to say that Ms. Kates is in complete agreement with the nay-sayers:

The menu majors in salads and sandwiches. Some days the self-proclaimed fab farmhouse bread is good, some days it’s dry. The sandwiches are questionable at best: Chicken curry salad sandwich would be okay if one could locate the chicken in it. Same for the so-called “grilled chicken Cobb salad” wherein the chicken is AWOL, the bacon is mostly soggy, and there is way more lettuce than anything else - not exactly the Cobb salad of my dreams

Dressings are questionable: The honey-mustard vinaigrette on berry and snap pea salad (again almost all lettuce) is too-sweet pale yellow cream, and the salsa dressing on shrimp salad is cinnamon-spiked cranberry - way too sweet to put on a salad. The shrimp taste just slightly off, and they’ve been sliced in half lengthwise - a tacky trick to save money.

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Blog-A-Log - Saturday, May 3rd

Posted by Sheryl Kirby in blog-a-log, news and media, on the web on May 3, 2008 at 8:11 am

It seems Toronto food bloggers have a collective sweet tooth this week, as the majority of the posts we’ve selected to feature are about sweet stuff.

Starting us off, Elizabeth at Blog From Our Kitchen makes some granola, using groats, not oats! Then Ferdzy at Seasonal Ontario Food makes a croissant pudding (like bread pudding) with streusel.

Tara at Seven Spoons reviews Martha Stewart’s Cookies, and makes the peanut butter and jelly bars, while Eric at Do You Know the Muffin Man? whips up a flourless chocolate orange almond cake, and at Closet Cooking, Kevin tries his hand at maple creme brulee.

At Porkosity, Corey sings the praises of mangoes and demonstrates how to cut one. (Pssst! Corey - the Alphansos have arrived in Little India!!) And Candice of Mmm, Tasty! reviews Dolce Gelato.

Also, Dean reviews 101 Foods That Could Save Your Life at Gothic Epicures VinCuisine, and Michael recaps the Somewhereness wine event at On the Road with the Grape Guy.